By BECKY TALLEY
Sheep Industry News Associate Editor

(February 1m 2010)  Barbecuing lamb is often a tradition for many sheep producers during big occasions, holidays and parties.

But, according to Pat Bosley of Owensboro, Ky., barbecued lamb is just a poor substitute for a popular delicacy that has been the staple of barbecue in his region – mutton.

That’s right. Mutton.

Owensboro is arguably called the barbecue capitol of the world, and unarguably called the barbecue mutton capitol of the world. It is a long-standing tradition in the area to cook those older sheep that are usually sent down to Mexico, a fairly rare move for the food service trade in the United States.

At the center of this mutton cuisine movement is Moonlite Bar-B-Q Inn, owned by the Bosley family, which has capitalized on this niche market for mutton – and is successfully serving it up to many repeat customers.

“It’s all about community and culture,” says Bosley, manager at Moonlite, about the popularity of mutton barbecue in the Owensboro area.

The region was settled by the Welsh who brought along with them sheep for both food and fiber.

Out of necessity and availability the use of mutton was born. Farmers kept a ewe until she could no longer produce, then processed her and ate her. Because there wasn’t a way to keep a carcass cold, and because mutton is tougher and isn’t particularly tasty fried or boiled, barbecue became the cooking method of choice for the meat.

In addition, the area is deeply rooted in the Roman Catholic Church, and church picnics have been a way of life for decades. These picnics often featured barbecued mutton, as it was what parishioners donated, and its popularity grew from there.

“You really have to step out of now, to understand barbecue,” he relates. “If it wasn’t for the Welsh, the church and farmers, we wouldn’t have this pocket of barbecue,” he says.

Today, Moonlite Bar-B-Q is at the top of the barbecued mutton game. It was founded by Hugh Sr. and Catherine Bosley in 1963, when they bought and transformed a small roadside barbecue stand. From there it has grown into a celebrated establishment that provides dine in, take out, catering and mail order services, offering many products, among them its famous barbecued mutton.

On average, Moonlite uses about 10,000 pounds of mutton a week. That equates to half a semi load of mutton coming in to the restaurant twice a week.

Bosley says he prefers to use 2-year-old or slightly older ewes that are in good body condition because the carcass is fat enough to cook well.

“Leaner cuts tend to be tough to work with. I want some fat, because that protects the meat. The cuts (from the ewes) have lots of fat and tend to be tough, which is perfect for barbecue,” he relates.

Most of the mutton, he says, is coming out of the Midwest region from three different supplying packers, which will break down the carcasses for his use.

As most of the mutton from the United States is exported to Mexico, Bosley says that he often has to call buyers to find the sheep and has to get it when he can, as supply fluctuates, though this has its advantages.

“I have to buy it when I can, and sometimes I buy more and freeze it. But, it’s on the hoof when I call, so it’s probably the freshest meat out there.”

Once the mutton reaches the restaurant, it is stored on site in a series of coolers that meets all federal regulations set down for meat lockers and restaurants. Every aspect, from the catering department to meat preparation and cooking, strictly follows regulations to ensure a safe product.

When it comes to cooking, Moonlite has developed a set of mutton products that have had customers raving for years.

First, the best cuts, such as the leg and shoulder, are used to make the barbecued product.

The mutton is cooked for 12 hours over a hickory fire, occasionally basted with the restaurants barbecue dip, in a specially designed three-door barbecue pit, that can also cook other meats at the same time.

It’s this cooking method that has helped Moonlite gain its reputation, and the Bosley family ensures it’s done right by continuing to prepare most of the products by hand using the best techniques and staff.

“The secret of barbecue is a good, hot, even fire. You build it up and bring it down to hot coals before you start cooking,” Bosley says.

As the restaurant opens at 9 a.m., the mutton must hit the pit at 9 p.m. the night before. Cooking goes on 24 hours a day, seven days a week to keep up with demand, and there is always a pit master on hand to ensure quality, a job that takes time to master.

“It takes about two years to be a pit master, cooking on a wood fire is difficult – figuring how much wood to use and quick wood burns – you have to learn how to do it,” Bosley adds.

In addition to the barbecued product, the lesser cuts of mutton are chipped and mixed with dip to make chopped mutton.

The rest of the mutton cuts, such as the shanks and necks, are made into a stew called “burgoo.” Burgoo is a mixture of mutton, beef, chicken and vegetables, and is a traditional meal in Kentucky at events like the Kentucky Derby.

Moonlite makes its burgoo in a steam kettle and sells about 55 gallons of it in a day. Customers can get this burgoo and other mutton products to go, including mutton loins and ribs by the pound.

Moonlite’s mutton products gain exposure to more than 1,000 customers who set foot in the restaurant in a day, on average. Holidays and summers are the restaurants most popular times, but there is always a steady demand for barbecue no matter the time of year.

According to Bosley, the ratio of mutton sold is about half the amount of the other meats he sells. Mostly, it is locals who are clamoring for it, but some out-of-towners come specifically to try the mutton, and others will often give it a shot if they begin with the chopped mutton.

“Some people are more adventurous. If you’re adventurous, try the mutton. Try it because you won’t find it anywhere else in the world,” he says.

In addition, the town of Owensboro holds the International Bar-B-Q Festival, every year, which draws barbecue teams and fans from all over the world and gives mutton barbecue a chance to shine, as 20,000 pounds of it is cooked during the competition.

For Bosley, the gaining popularity of mutton barbecue is just something that is a no-brainer. If you try it, he ensures, you can’t help but like it.

“If you can put your preconceptions aside, you will like mutton. If you like food, you will like mutton,” he says.

For more information on Moonlite Bar-B-Q Inn and its many products (including a few recipes for mutton), visit www.moonlite.com.